Our starting point was Isla Ometepe and our goal was to reach Monteverde in Costa Rica. There was very little information in the guidebooks or on the internet to indicate how this was done or even if it was possible at all. There only seemed to be a few blogs from guys who have ended up stranded in remote towns overnight. We didn’t want to end up stranded but the only other option which was well advertised was to get the Tica bus direct from Rivas to San Jose. Doing this would cost US$29 each and we would then have to stay overnight in San Jose and go back on ourselves to get up to Monteverde. This did not seem a practical option. So after 4 buses, a taxi and a ferry we did finally make it. Here is the route we used.
We were staying in the small beachside town of Playa Santo Domingo on Island Ometepe when we began our journey. We started the day at 5.40am to get packed and ready to catch the 6am local bus from outside our Hostel, Hospedaje Buena Vista. Unfortunately this was not direct and we had to change at Altagracia to get the bus to the San Jose del Ser ferry terminal. This got us there just in time to catch the boat leaving at 7.20am. $1 for both buses was much cheaper than getting the overpriced taxis.
Once off the ferry at San Jorge we jumped in a taxi to take us to the bus station in Rivas so we could then get the bus to the border. Obviously the taxi driver told us we would have to wait hours for the bus but could conveniently offer to drive us there for $20. We knew this was expensive but with little idea of how long the rest of the journey would take we decided to take this option and get to the boarder quickly. The journey takes 45 minutes and we think $15 would have been a more reasonable price to pay.
Once at the border it’s the usual chaos of people swarming around you offering advice and money changing. We were ushered by an official looking guy to a booth were we had to pay $1 each although we are not sure what this was for. Then we were told to fill in the usual departure forms and pay another $1.50 each to exit Nicaragua.
On exiting the departure building it’s a 10 minute walk across to the Costa Rica immigration office. When we left there were two first class busses waiting, after speaking to a guy from the company NicaBus he said the easiest way to get to Monteverde would be to get the bus to to drop us off at La Irma and change bus there. It didn’t take us much convincing to pay the $12 each to get on the first class air conditioned coach. The other option, which we later found out from other travellers, was to walk across the boarder and get a local bus to from the border to Liberia, then change at Liberia to get to La Irma. This costs about $4.
Entering Costa Rica is surprisingly easy. It is advised to have proof of onward travel to show to the immigration officer otherwise you may be forced to buy a bus ticket for $10 from outside the office. We had a flight out of Panama City booked so were planning to show that however we didn’t get asked. Although two guys in front of us did and they showed their flight itinerary on their laptop which the officer glanced at and let them through.
Whichever option you chose for getting the bus from the boarder you will end up being dropped off outside a petrol station in La Irma 37km from Monteverde which is a remote spot with very little around. Clearly, lost looking travellers are common as the friendly staff at the petrol station were keen to point out the red bus stop across the road which is where the bus to Monteverde will pick you up. Above the bus shelter it visibly points out that there are only two buses a day, one at 10am and one at 3pm. This was information the three tired looking travellers waiting at the bus station when we arrived had clearly not been given. They told us they arrived at 10.30 am and after several failed attempts at hitchhiking had been forced to accept they were going to have to wait four and a half hours or pay $20 each for a taxi. Due to their budgets they had decided to wait. After hearing their story we were less bothered about having to wait 1 hour 30 minutes as we arrived at 1.30pm.
Soon enough the bus stop was filled with travellers from various places and at 3pm the comfortable looking western style bus turned up to take us the final leg of the journey. The bus costs $1 and lasts for 1 hour. Driving up into the mountains was a fantastic way to end a tiring journey as the scenery was breath taking. After setting off from Santo Domingo at 6am we finally arrived at Monteverde at 4pm.
In summary the route we took from Niacragua to Monteverde is this.
- Starting at Isla Ometepe
- Ferry to San Jorge
- Taxi to Rivas
- Border Crossing at Penas Blancas
- Nica Bus to La Irma
- Monteverde (Bus leaves La Irma at 3.00pm)