Around Palenque - Into the Jungle

We arrived at Palenque after a 6 hour bus ride from San Cristobal. We had been advised not to stay in the town centre but to head to the traveller hang out of El Panchan, located near to the entrance of the ruins. Its beautiful location is not the only reason it is popular with the traveller crowd as it is well known for selling mushrooms of the more magic variety.

As we didn't have any accommodation booked we got the taxi to drop us off somewhere so we could find a room. Located in a dense forest, in 30 degree heat, the last thing you want to do is trek around with a heavy backpack so we head to the first sign offering accommodation, promisingly called Jungle Palace. The man at the entrance said rooms were 250 Paso with a bathroom. A bargain! I cautiously ask to have a look at this so called 'palace'. We were then led to a makeshift ply building, 10ft in the air, trying to pass off as some sort of tree house. We walk up the stairs to have a look inside. You don't have to be an expert in construction to see that this building was not structurally sound and its decor can only be described as rustic, at best.

Karl looks around and says it to looks fine. I'm less keen. The place doesn't even have walls. Half of it is covered in some sort or mesh with gaping holes in. I would be a feast for the mosquitoes. I set off in search for something better with moans from Karl that I need to make my standards more realistic. Luckily 20m further into the jungle I spot a well-kept patch, a lush stream and freshly painted white concrete walls. We have stumbled upon Margareta and Eds oasis. For 70 Paso's more than the jungle palace (aprox £3) we are lead to possibly the cleanest room we have stayed in so far. It has a cool blue decor, a large comfortable bed and beautiful pattered floor tiles which you could eat off.

I bask in my triumph.

Karl is still trying to protest that if we were true budget backpackers we would have stayed in the tree house and had the full jungle experience. I tell him he is free to go stay there himself while I sleep in my luxury insect proof fortress.

As if this place couldn't get any better, the owner is the nicest woman and my new favourite person as she told me I look the same age as her granddaughter who is 14. Unfortunately there were no similar comments made to Karl.

El Panchan is not like anywhere we have been before. Secluded in the jungle you can hear the sounds of the howler monkeys screeching overhead to the background tune of a thousand insects. In the evening we venture out in search of food. There are only 2 options available one is a very basic bar and burger van which we stop off at first, for happy hour. A short walk further takes you to the epicentre of El Panchan, Don Muchos is a large restaurant set around a stage with a live band playing atmospheric drum beats. It's perfect. The place was sold to us as a hippy hang out, and there are certainly a few spaced out dreadlocks knocking around. However we are surprised to see a number of Mexican family's here. As the night goes on we are treated to Salsa and fire dancing. The atmosphere in the place is like a holiday resort and we almost forget we are backpacking as we order more glasses of wine.

Misol-Hal and Agua Azul

Feeling slightly worse for wear after a night of indulgences we went on a tour to the local waterfalls. Or efforts were well worth it as we were rewarded with the spectacular sights of Misol-Ha and Agua Azul. At a height of 35m the nearby Misol-Ha waterfall cascades into the deep pool surrounded by dark green jungle with exotic plants. You can experience the sheer force of the water as you walk along the back of the falls.

Next we head to Agua Azul which, despite the influx of tourists, was simply beautiful. As we swam in the turquoise waters I found myself staring at the falls, the place looked so familiar. I had read many travel magazines, books and websites before this trip and this place felt as though we had both been dropped onto page from one of the magazines photographs.

A splash in these waters was the perfect remedy for a hangover.

Needless to say we had an enchanting experience in the jungle. With the magnificent Mayan ruins to explore and epic waterfalls on our doorstep. Mexico has once again produced another gem for us.