Getting To Tierradentro
Getting to Tierradentro was half the fun if that’s what you want to call it. From San Agustin it takes three bus rides and can be done in five hours. When the hostel owner told us this we foolishly thought he was referring to an actual bus.
However we were in a remote region of Colombia, it was far enough from the laws of civilisation that we were asked if we wanted to go on a tour of a cocaine factory and watch it being produced. Sensibly we turned the offer down. Unlike the rest of Colombia there are less police and of course less tarmacked roads.
It turns out our ‘bus’ was more of a jeep\pick-up truck. Less comfortable than a bus but way more exciting.
The first stop took us from San Agustin to Pitalito and took around 45 minutes, the driver took us behind the bus station where we were swiftly transferred to another truck. So far the journey was going perfectly. The onward journey to La Plata took us through lush mountain scenery and small farming villages, the view from the back of the truck was superb though the winding dirt roads made me feel a little nauseous.
Four hours later we got off the truck in what appear to be someone’s back yard, this in fact was the bus station at La Plata. Five minutes later another truck pulled in but we didn’t know that it was the one we need to get to Tierradentro. It turned out you needed to take the truck to San Andres and you would be dropped off on the way. While we were figuring this out a mass of people had descended on the truck. The back seats were full, the sides were coated in people hanging on, and some brave souls were sitting on the roof amongst the luggage. It turned out that we too had to find a place to attach ourselves to the vehicle as the next bus was three hours later. I might have enjoyed sitting on the roof but there was no room for the two of us. Nor was there room for a lot of other people who like us had to find something else to do.
Walking around the main square it looked like there was very little in La Plata to do or see and nowhere to stay if we couldn’t catch the next truck. Several guys offered to give us a ride on the back of their motorcycles but we hired the services of a local taxi driver to take us the rest of the way. At 90000 pesos it was more expensive but was worth the extra cost of waiting and fighting to get on the truck. Around an hour and a half later across rough terrain we arrived in a tiny village near to the entrance of Tierradentro Archaeological Park.
Tierradentro
Arriving at Tierrodentro we checked into a basic but perfectly suited guesthouse and settled in for the night. After our home cooked meal we went for a walk but didn’t get very far as the village consisted of only a few houses and beyond that we were surrounded by darkness. Life is very different there, with most people working the land for a living it’s a stark contrast to life in the Colombian cities so with little to do we returned to the guesthouse.
In the morning we headed to the archaeological park, after a quick look in the museums we started up the mountains and out of the valley to begin a 14km walk. The fresh morning air was soon replaced by a strangling heat as we headed upwards to the site of the first tombs.
Ten minutes uphill walking and we were out of breath but soon made it to the first archaeological site. Each tomb was sealed with a wooden trapdoor. We opened the first hatch and descended down the stairs, each step down a step back in time.
A few of the tombs still have colours inside revealing a glimpse into the mysterious society that created them.
As we looked inside the tombs we wondered of the civilisation that created them.
The tombs are thought to have been built in the 6th to 9th century. Little is known about the culture that built them which adds to the mystery.
Amongst other things the tombs comtained pots which were used as urns to store the dead.
We continue onwards up the hill where another set of tombs awaited us, then it was on to the tiny village of San Andreas. Along a dirt road we passed by small farms, observing the local population growing fruits and drying coffee outside their small houses built with mud, bamboo and other locally available materials, whilst chickens, cows and horses wandered around freely. We even spotted someone growing cannabis plants outside their house. Compared to urban Colombia it was like a window into a past time except it very much exists in the 21th century.
After lunch in San Andreas we continued the walk up the mountains on the other side of the valley, dropping in a few more tombs on the way although excitement had worn off by then. The path continued back to the entrance of the park and we made our way back to the guesthouse before dark with a new friend who refused to leave.
Getting Away - Tierrodento to Bogota.
When we came to pay the bill it only costed £25 for the two nights stay, two evening meals each, breakfasts and 12 beers. Despite the difficulty getting there it was hardly expensive on the wallet.
Fully expecting a nightmare journey we awoke early and at 6.30am we were waiting in the fresh and misty mountain air outside the guesthouse for a passing truck heading to La Plata. As it approached we flagged it down but it was clearly full and people were already sitting on the roof, however this time we were prepared to find a space no matter what. Leanne hung on for 10 minutes but then a small old lady, conveniently the size of Leanne, got off so she squeezed into her space. I suddenly saw the advantages of being small. Looking into the truck I knew at least two of these petite people would have to get out before I stood any chance of getting seat, therefore, I resigned myself to the fact that I would be clinging on for the full hour and a half. Leanne kept reminding me not to let go but this was such a fun way to travel that I soon forgot how unsafe it could have been hanging onto the back of a truck going 60mph.
An hour and a half later over winding mountain roads and gorgeous valleys we were surprised to be dropped off at a modern bus station, and we wondered how we had missed this on the way in. With direct buses to Bogota we waited happy in the thought that we did not have to take any more trucks during the 9 hour journey to civilisation that lay ahead.
