Semuc Champey is not an easy place to get to. From Rio Dulce it’s a five hour bus journey through the mountains on mainly unpaved roads. From Antigua it’s an 8hr journey but on better roads. So what is it that entices travellers to this remote part of Guatemala? Well the answer is that it is a place of outstanding natural beauty. Photographs will never be able to do this place justice you simply have to see it for yourselves.
In fact seeing it is not the best part. The series of overflowing waterfalls are better experienced by climbing, swimming sliding and falling through the turquoise pools in this natural waterpark for adults.
Our trip to Semuc Champey began by arriving in Lanquin, a nearby town with a few hostels. We arrived in the afternoon and chose the Hostel El Retiro to stay. This was probably our biggest mistake as although the hostel is beautifully laid out beside the river the staff have no idea what is going on and they ended up double booking our room (this happens a lot in Guatemala) and then moving us to another room in a different hotel across the road which was still in the process of being built. Despite this the alternative room did have air con and the food in the restaurant was delicious so not all was bad.
We booked the tour to Semuc Champey through the hostel as they offered one night free if you book through them. The cost of the trip was Q180pp. You can get this cheaper if you look elsewhere in town.
We did not know much about what the trip entailed when we signed up. Once again this was probably a good thing as I may not have went on the trip if I had known in advance the dangers I was about to face.
The day began at 9am, our group was ridiculously huge and they carted us up like sheep into the back of two trucks. Literally like sheep. This turned out to be an excellent way to enjoy the 40min ride as you can fully appreciate the stunning views of the surrounding countryside.
The first activity of the day was tubing. Seemingly where ever there is a river in Central America you must throw yourself down it in a rubber tyre. This was great fun, made even more hilarious by the fact that Karl’s tyre was deflating and couldn’t hold him up.
So as the rest of the group floated gently down the river Karl was left behind trying to swim the tyre along. As we got out we were asked if we would like to jump off a bridge into the river. After watching a few brave souls, we politely declined.
Next we were told we were going to explore some caves. We had done the ATM in Belize so I was feeling a bit of a pro. However, unlike Belize where we had been given helmets and head touches on this tour we were given a candle.
At this point I was thinking the cave must be easy enough to explore as we must be able to walk with the candle. NO. I WAS WRONG.
Plunging into deep pools of water in the pitch black the guides expected us to swim using one hand while holding the candle in the air, then climb over rocks and up ladders or ropes… all while holding a candle.
My candle caused more problems than it solved. As did the flip flops I had chosen to wear which were of no use whatsoever. I also have a fear of deep water so being unable to judge when we were about to plunge into another deep pool was a bit frightening, to say the least. Luckily Karl reluctantly helped me as I offloaded the candle and flip-flops onto him so I was able to franticly grasp into the darkness for something to hold onto.
At the end of the cave the guides made us jump down a narrow gap which had water flowing down and dive into the pitch black. They tell you to keep your unprotected head slightly to the left in case you hit a rock. I could have written the experience as my worst nightmare but as we saw daylight at the end of the cave I was overcome with the joy that it was over and felt slightly proud of myself for not having freaked out or started crying.
We celebrated with a beer at lunch. This was another mistake as straight after that in the peak of the midday sun they send us marching up a never ending flight of steep stairs. At the top you are given precisely 30 seconds to take a photo of the outstanding view of the waterfalls before they send you back down with the promise of a refreshing swim at the end.
Finally we are allowed to enter the star attraction, the waterfalls. There are seven pools in total and the guide took is through most of them.
This was by far the best part of the day as they had us jumping, swimming and sliding between them. It was hard not to feel like a kid again at a water park.
Feeling battered and bruised we headed back to the hostel. The day was more adventurous than I had anticipated but turned out to be great fun in what could possibly be the most beautiful place in Guatemala.
