Did we set out to go to Naples? no. But with the cheapest flights from the UK, Rome to the north, Pompei next door and the Amalfi coast around corner. Naples was the most economical way into this historical region of Italy.
The little I knew of Naples involved shootings, extortion and Mafiosi namely the Camorra. The stabbing of British football fans by football hooligans reported in the press. The odd historical reference in relation to some long lost roman emperor, the passing though of Richard the lion heart on his way to partake in crusades and the French occupation under Napoleon. My knowledge of Naples was patchy at best.
Compound these violent tales with stories from others who have visited the city “I did not feel safe”, “the place is dirty”, “there is graffiti everywhere”, it would be easy to conclude that avoidance would be the best policy. Perhaps Naples was not a safe place to visit as a tourist.
I little bit of research later and my curiosity was ignited. Naples city centre was a UNSECO World Heritage site, hardly surprising for a city with 2800 years of history. With 448 historical churches, a wealth of castles, palaces, museums and piazzas as well as being the home of the pizza surely a taste of Italy could be found in Naples.
Undeterred we booked a hotel for 3 nights in the Piazza Bellini neighbourhood before heading onwards to Rome and then Sorrento. On arrival via taxi it’s hard not to notice that every car has been dinted. Stories of the Camorra ransoming cars presumably means keeping your car discreet has its benefits. Tales of graffiti everywhere were certainly true, even the historic centre was unable to escape the distinct spraying of paint. Perhaps this added to the effect, but the city was a little dirty, but certainly no more than any other European city. Although at the time I hardly noticed, I have been to places far worse in Asia.
Thinking nothing of the city’s bad reputation we wandered the cobbled, narrow streets of the historic centre. Shops squeezed into the ground floors of the four story houses selling religious trinkets, gelato and pizza. Historic churches were on every corner, evidently still a part of the Neapolitan culture, it had the vibe of a religious city. Imposing castles lined the harbour (Lungomare\Bayfront) surrounding Naples, the sun shone bright, the shadow of Vesuvius cast across the bay while Neapolitans frequented the seaside restaurants. This certainly did not feel the dangerous place portrayed to me. Then there was the Naples National Museum of Archaeology, the most important museum in Italy, it contains the most intact artefacts from the Roman and Greek periods in the world. Most of the artefacts were found in nearby Herculaneum and Pompeii. This was one of the best museums I have visited, the lack of other visitors only made it more pleasurable.
I was still yet to see the danger but perhaps it is easy for me to see past what would make others feel unsafe, there is touts, and people who will befriend you just to steel your belongings. Like any other major city just keep to your self have your wits about you, dress down, don’t make yourself stand out in the crowd. And yes there is pick pockets, especially at the garibaldi station. They are very easy to spot, just remember to keep your belongings safe.
So is Naples safe for tourists? In truth I never felt unsafe the entire time. There is clearly issues with petty crime but this is the case in any city. Yes there is graffiti and rubbish in places, if you can look beyond this you will find the most interesting of cities packed full of history, architecture, character and good pizza.
