We had both been regularly checking the latest weather at Yosimite and it wasn't looking good for us camping. We knew we were taking a risk planning our trip at this time of year so we weren't surprised to hear it was snowing and temperatures would reach -2oC. As the road we were planning to use to get to Las Vegas was also closed we took it as a sign that we should look for somewhere else to stay. As my dad was quick to point out, this wasn't exactly Bear Grylles mentality, however after spending our last nights camping in the cold I wasn't keen to spend 3 days in colder and wetter conditions.
So where else could we go on the way to Vegas which would be guaranteed to be hot? Death Valley was the obvious choice. On the way we spent one night in a small beach side resort called Cayucous.
After a long drive through the desert roads we reached Furnace Creek in the afternoon. With temperatures in the mid 30's (degrees Celsius) this would certainly be hot enough for us to camp.
In the afternoon we went to watch a spectacular sunset from Zabriskie Point, with views looking over the mountains and low down badlands.
We pitched our tent as the sun was beginning to set. Unfortunately our budget tent had already taken a beating and we found a hole had appeared near the entrance. Without anything to fix it I had to spend the night thinking there were snakes getting in our tent. Thankfully in the morning the local store sold duct tape. With only 3 nights of camping down and other 9 to go I am starting to get the feeling that we may be sleeping in an entire duct tape tent by the end.
After our morning Roxercise session (basically using rocks as weights in an attempt to maintain some level of fitness) we headed to the Badwater Basin.
As we entered this surreal landscape of vast salt flats Karl shouts “Its a load of bollocks really”. He is referring to the number of signs which point out that this is the lowest point (in North America) at -282ft (-85.5m) below sea level. Having been to the Dead Sea in Jordan at -1360 ft (-414m) below sea level, I do kind of see his point. However, not wanting to be defeated, Death Valley does hold the record for the highest ever air temperature, reaching 57 degrees Celsius in 1913, which is pretty impressive.
Our next stop was a short hike to Natural Bridge. This was just a 1 mile stroll but that is more than enough in the blistering heat.
Thankfully the Americans love a good scenic drive. So with the AC full blast our next attraction was Artists Drive. A beautiful drive through multi-hued volcanic and sedimentary hills.
After we had cooled off we thought we would brave the Golden Canyon Trail. This was only a short 2 mile walk but we were beaten by the mid day heat half way. I like to feel that we had done the best part of the walk.
After spending some time in the cool visitor centre and with a hit of caffeine to get us going we went in search for our final stop of the day.
The Mesequite Flat Sand Dunes are better in the afternoon, and thankfully the sun had clouded over as they aren't the easiest to walk on. We ran, skipped and jumped our way across another diverse landscape.
Once the caffeine buzz wore off we headed back to camp exhausted.
The problem with camping in the Desert, apart from the snakes, scorpions and spiders, is the dust. After rolling around barefoot in the sand dunes my feet look like they will never be clean again. There is also a considerable lack of water which means that the campsite doesn't have a shower. We are forced to try and wash ourselves in the hand sinks, only to walk out into the wind and be covered with a fresh layer of muck. I thought we were looking tanned but it will probably wash off when we get to Vegas.
After the sun set on the on the final night the wind began to gust, and in the dryest place in America it began to RAIN, and it rained all night long. I was sure the tent was going to blow away but we survived and so did the tent..for now.
